2) St Mary’s Church

St Mary’s Church was built to replace the ancient church of St Lawrence, on land directly opposite the latter.  It was designed by W & C.H. Bassett Smith in the Victorian Gothic “Decorated” style. Gothic revival became increasingly popular with architects in the 19th century, harking back to mediaeval styles, and at St Mary’s is characterised by the extensive use of stained glass and the elaborate tracery into which the glass is inserted. 

Although actually of brick, the external walls are faced with flint, in conformity with the traditional Surrey appearance, with dressed stone around windows, doors and external angles.  St Mary’s was consecrated on 7th May 1866 by the then Bishop of Winchester.

Originally the building consisted of only the nave, chancel and narrow side aisles and accommodated 350 seats.  It has since been extended several times, initially by the addition in 1883 of a new south aisle, tower and spire of 126ft (38m).  The walls of the tower are 4ft (1.2m) thick and the spire is constructed of heavy pitch pine timbers and faced with cedar shingles.  In 1912 a new north aisle was added, largely funded by one the main benefactors, Harry Lloyd of Woodlands, to provide seating for parishioners who could not afford to pay pew rents.  The building was Grade II listed in 1984.

The notable whiteness of the interior walls is a result of improvements made under the Rev. Dr. George Butterworth (Rector 1937-51), who also had the font moved to its present central position and an elaborate font cover installed which is lowered from the ceiling by a chain.  Behind the high altar is a beautiful reredos designed by Sir Ninian Comper, consisting of a triptych depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary, installed in 1915.  There is an impressive, largely hand-wrought, screen between the Chancel and Lady Chapel.  The stained glass windows, the oldest dating back to 1866, are from the firms of Hardman, Powell and Evans (Hardman’s glass became one of the most leading manufacturers). The organ, a large instrument with a very fine tone, was installed in 1908.  Although St Mary’s had a carillon of eight tubular bells since 1892 it was not until 1994 that a project to install the present full peal of eight bells came to fruition.  Six bells were obtained from a fire-damaged church in the West Midlands; the other two being cast at the Whitechapel Foundry.  The War Memorial in St Mary’s is a broad oak panel mounted on the west wall behind the font. A memorial to the staff members of the former St Lawrence’s Hospital who lost their lives in World War 1 was restored and installed on the west wall of the south aisle in 2014.  

Outside the main church building, on the South side is St Mary’s Church Hall, built in the 1960’s  and refurbished in 2012, which is used for a variety of social functions.  On the North side is St Pauls’ centre providing a Parish office, with a small hall and facilities.  The centre was built in 1990 with funds from the sale of land in Banstead Road on which stood the temporary wooden church of St Paul’s.

The churchyard has a number of burials, and after St Mary’s was built, the churchyard filled up rapidly.  Very few burials were made after 1900, and the churchyard now is a haven for nature, maintained by volunteers.  One of the more notable burials in the churchyard is that of Samuel Gibson, on the south side.  Gibson was a veteran of the Battle of Waterloo, a long-term resident of St Lawrence’s Hospital, and died at the age of 101. He was buried with full military honours, courtesy of the Guards’ Depot nearby. The inscription on his tomb reads:-

‘To the glory of God and in memory of Samuel Gibson, late private 27th Iniskillings, born at Tanderagel, Co Armagh, in 1790, died at Caterham Asylum December 15th 1891. Enlisted in 27th Iniskillings in 1803 and served throughout the Peninsular and Waterloo campaigns in that distinguished regiment. At the time of his death, he was one of the last known survivors of Waterloo.’

To the rear of the church is the public cemetery, which is administered by the local authority.  This affords fine views across the valley and contains the grave of William Garland Soper, often called the father of modern Caterham, and a number of war graves from the two World Wars  – visit the Commonwealth War Graves Commission for details Cemetery Details | CWGC

All images from postcards courtesy of the East Surrey Museum.